Pula to Montenegro
September 2026
Berlin, Germany
The plan was to begin with a flying visit to Berlin for a friend’s 30th. Leaving on the redeye from Guernsey was fortuitous as the following flights out the island were delayed or cancelled entirely due to fog. As it turns out, after a day in central London, the early flight wasn’t essential to make my connecting flight. Boarding the easyjet flight in Luton, we’re unexpectedly called back to the gate. It’s not immediately clear why, but murmurings in the crowd start and talk of a security scare shutting Berlin airport soon become a reality. With the flight cancelled, we’re given the option of rebooking for the following day or a refund for a later date. I hastily book for the following evening, before our whole flight tries to do the same, then start contemplating what to do for a day in Luton.
Boarding the flight the following evening, I was due to land by 2100 in Berlin, just as the party was beginning, however the 2 hour queue for Berlin customs was going to make sure I was extra late. A train to the centre, and metro line to Fredrickstein, meant I wasn’t entering the venue until 0100. It’s a good job such parties continue until the sun rises in Berlin… Using my hotel for little more than a shower and an hours power nap, it was soon time for my next flight!
Copenhagen, Denmark
With yet another flight delay, I’m seated near the front of the plane and grateful not to be travelling with checked luggage. Disembarking with less than 15 minutes until my next flight walking turns to jogging, then jogging to running but as I arrive at the gate, fortunately the plane was only just taxiing to a stop, after also being held up by weather. Copenhagen airport with its Scandinavian design language is a whole lot less hostile than Berlin Brandenburg, and was a soothing, welcome change.
Pula, Croatia
The sun dips below the horizon as a I ride a taxi to the Pula seafront. Here I’m greeted by Joe, and I drop my bag to the boat in the Marina before we heading back into town to find food and have a proper catch up. It’s hard not to be drawn to the Roman amphitheater ruins, tonight showing live boxing with a light show further exaggerating imposing structure.
Before slipping lines, I’m up early the following morning keen to explore Pula in daylight. A town layered with history, ranging from the impressive Roman amphitheater, to the wartime tunnels to the industrial shipyard still in use, in the centre of the bay.
Leg 1, Pula > Dubrovnik
With the forecast for the wind to moderate over the afternoon materializing, the engines are started and left to warm up as we review the passage plan. At 1300 hours, we slip the med mooring lines and depart Pula marina, leaving our thanks over the VHF, we wind out of the bay around the hulk of supposedly the largest cattle carrying ship on earth, being built in ship yard of an otherwise very picturesque bay.
Initially the residual sea state has us traversing a beam on swell, it’s size enough to induce a severe rocking motion as the autopilot tried to compensate. This was easily corrected for by intermittently hand steering, and as the miles started to be eaten away at a cruising speed of ten knots the sea state, moderated further. log book entries were completed on the hour and comprised of highlights such as “Hastily steered around a turtle”.
We pressed on south and fell into routine 3hr watch pattern.
The night watches were inky black with little moonlight, and a sharp watch had to be held for vessels running without AIS, and poorly lit fishing marks. The sunset was just and enchanting as the sunrise, albeit the sun was cloaked by a forest fire smog.
Dubrovnik
Back in familiar waters, we were to stop in ACI Marina Dubrovnik for a night, with the plan to clear customs in the morning and exit the EU before transiting to the our final destination, Montenegro. After near 30 hours straight of motoring, we tied up along side in the Marina and took a walk to the foot of the surrounding mountains. Here pure filtered mountain water emerges into Europe’s shortest river before merging with the sea. Diving through the 25 degree surface water I pierce through a thermocline, a clear division between the heavier fresh water 10 degrees colder than the salt water floating on top.
lEG 2, Dubrovnik > Porto Montenegro
Montenegro
More to follow…
From Roman amphitheatres to the Bay of Kator, and 6 countries in 6 days