Lares Trek
16th - 21st Mar 2025
Day 1, A Rocky Start
The alarm buzzed at 4am and I awoke sharply for the day ahead. Staying in the Socialtel in central Cusco, I had already started to fall in love with Peru having explored the city for several days prior. We had flown to Cusco 3 days ahead of the planned trek in an effort to acclimatize to the altitude. Having lived on a sailing yacht for 5 months, it was safe to say we had some work to do to get used to living at over 3,500m above sea level! We had booked the Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu several months prior, but now with less than 48 hours to go, we received some disappointing news. Peru had experienced unprecedented rainfall recently and the Peruvian government had just announced the trail would continue to be closed for until at least the end of the month due to landfalls and safety reasons.
We had chosen Alpaca Expeditions after Alex's extensive research online and as one of the few local Andean owned and run expedition operators, we were happy to pay a slight premium safe in the knowledge the guides, porters and chefs were being paid appropriately for the hard labour and work they put into these high altitude adventures. Naturally we were slightly disheartened not to be able to do the Inca Trail, but as often is the case, things like this happen for a reason and boat life had taught us if nothing else, to expect the unexpected and embrace fluid planning! With the announcement, which was sure to significantly negatively affect their business, they instantly offered us an alternative trek. The Lares.
Shorter it may be, but reaching a higher max altitude, featuring challenging terrain and steep accents and descents it would not be a walk in the park! With our duffle and day bags loaded into the Sprinter bus, we toured Cusco city collecting our fellow trekkers, just being held up by nightclubbers rolling out into the streets. Tired good mornings were traded before trying to catch some more shut eye on the long winding drive deeper into the Andes towards the trail head.
Stopping at a local village enroute we toured the local market which despite the early hour, was well turned out, complete with skinned Guinea Pigs. Being a lifelong pescatarian that didn't do much for my appetite, but soon we had the distraction of Coca leaves. Alvin our super local guide explained how the leaves help alleviate altitude sickness symptoms and boosted energy levels. They extensively used in the Andes by the local Quechua people and it was not uncommon to see them with chubby cheeks slowly chewing on a bundle of these leaves. Purchasing our own leaves for just a few Peruvian soles for the days ahead we return to the bus and continue the drive through valleys of switch back roads, shallow river crossings and the occasional grounding when we didnt quite have sufficient ground clearance.
We had been making good progress despite some roads suffering with a spattering of boulders dislodged by the heavy rainfall, but that was soon abruptly ended. Donning our fetching green ponchos we step out into the rain and walk pass a few other parked up vehicles. The mountainside has slipped across a 30m section of road, leaving a muddy obstacle several metre’s high. There's no alternative route, so save for turning around and driving back to the city, we're faced with a indeterminate wait for earth moving equipment to arrive. Being a Sunday morning, there was a very real possibility the front loader operator was at church, but before long the porters had erected both mess and dining tent, and early breakfast was being served up. A sea of green this was a first chance to really meet each other. Our Plan B group, comprised of a mix of travellers from Argentina, California, Canada, and England. It was soon clear we were going to get on like a house on fire and with Alvin reminding us to keep a PMA, and coca-mocha-chinnos accompanying a great breakfast spread the laughter began.
Day 2, Condor Pass
A 5am wake up call was softened by piping hot coca leaf tea and a generous breakfast spread. The night had been cold and dogs howling in the valley at 4am had woken us earlier than we hoped. Nevertheless we had the toughest day of the hike ahead climbing to the Condor Pass at just over 4,700m above sea level. With the increasing elevation came more stunning views of mirror calm lakes and glacier capped mountains. Chinchillas jumped effortlessly between boulders as we slowly trudged up a trail marked as formidable on the guide map.
Near the summit of the pass, we were invited to join our guide Humberto in a spiritual ceremony to the Andean god of Pachamama, Mother Earth. Each offering a coca leaf, Humberto arranged these in a fan shape in a shallow hole before being buried as a “payment to the earth”. Pachamama is one of the most important Gods to the Andean people, with offerings made most often made in August, hopefully in exchange for a good harvest season.
Once through the pass, trekking poles were slightly extended and we began the big descent down the next valley to Camp two. The surface was loose and it was easy to stumble, being distracted by the incredible views but we could make much quicker progress, safe in the knowledge the air would be getting thicker and more juicy again!
Day 3, Visiting the Locals
Before departing the small Andean village where we had made camp, we had the opportunity to visit a local family living one of the primitive stone homes, topped only with a thatched roof and hard packed ground for a floor. Wearing colourful traditional dress, the house interior was stark and dark contrast, with just one room shared with a dozen guinea pigs mainly under the main bed, destined for a dinner plate in the future. Alpaca jerky hung from the ceiling, along with a solitary light bulb, powered by powerlines that had only just made it to the village two years prior.
Soon it was time to leave our second camp and descend further down the rocky valley before visiting Machu Picchu.
Trekking at altitude through the Andes. Destination Machu Picchu.